Canard outboard tips

With the elevators installed, it was now time to complete the canard outboard ends.

I started out by masking the elevator outboard ends to keep them clean from any micro.



I took scrap foam blocks and traced out the canard's airfoil shape so I would know where to apply the slurry...



 I applied slurry to the canard end and the foam block...



I used a toothpick to make sure the foam block wouldn't slide off... and a few gallon jugs to apply pressure on the end...


Repeated this for the other side...



Here is Liam helping me make sure we had 1" vertically above the canard's trailing edge as indicated in the Roncz canard plans...




 After the foam blocks cured, I marked the trailing edge of the elevator onto the foam block. I left it a bit longer on purpose so that I can make the layup longer. This will allow me to sand up to the elevator's trailing edge later, rather than risking coming up short.


I reinstalled the "L" jig to position the elevator at 0 degree.


Since I left the foam blocks a bit long, I taped cards under the elevator trailing edge so that I could position template "M" over them...


Here I am placing template "M" over the cards that were taped to the elevator's trailing edge...


I traced out the curve onto the aft face of the foam blocks...


I then splined the canard's trailing edge to the inboard trailing edge of the "M" template... this will eventually become the top surface of the canard tip's inboard rib.


I then drew a diagonal line on the top surface. I measured 2" outboard on the leading edge of the canard... and 5" outboard from the elevator's trailing edge...


With all the lines drawn, it was time to butcher away! I started by shaving the top surface level with the highest spot of the canard's airfoil...



I then started hacking away the inboard aft corner...


Then switched to sandpaper to get that smooth wing up tip!


Looking really good!!!!


With the trailing edge sanded to shape, I focused on the outboard leading edge corner... I drew up some spline lines, and sanded away...


When I was happy with the look... I created a template so that I could mirror it on the other side..





 Oh boy,, lots of work ahead!


Left side...


But surely enough, I got it to match perfect! Here is the right side...


I then sanded 1"+ inboard of the foam blocks where the layups will overlap onto the canard for a good glass-to-glass bond....




Happy with the top surface contours, it was time to do some layups! Started out by slurrying the surface and painting plain epoxy...



Prepregged 2 plies UNI (crossing at about 45 degrees) and placed it on top... trimmed everything along the leading edge and followed the line all the way around... then peel plied... even the outboard edge since that will be overlapped by the bottom layup..





After the top surface cured, I removed the peel plied, trimmed and sanded everything up...




Top surfaces look great!!!


I then marked the trailing edge of the elevator onto the canard trailing edge tip...


And sanded it perfectly flush!



With the top surfaces complete, I flipped the canard over and began work on the bottom surface...


First step was to make sure the elevator was at 0 degrees. Rather than using the "L" jig, I found it easier to shim the elevator to match the trailing edge of the already cured outboard tips...


Perfect match!


I then started hacking away!


I took off as much as I could with the knife.. then switched to sandpaper...





Eventually, I had to remove the elevator so that the pin would not be in the way... I also marked 0.4" along the trailing edge so that I could use the dremel and sand the foam and micro away for a good glass-to-glass bond...



Although the plans don't call for this, I added a flox corner where the fiberglass will go from overlapping with the tip's leading edge and transition to a glass-to-glass bond...


I also sanded 1" inboard of the foam blocks. With all surfaces prepped, it was time for the bottom layups!


Applied slurry and a tiny bit of flox into that transition area.. and also painted plain epoxy 1" inboard and on the leading edges where it will overlap 0.5"...




Prepregged 2 plies UNI (crossing at about 45 degrees) and installed it on. I used a brush to make sure there were no air bubbles, especially on the trailing edge. Trimmed everything up and peel plied.



Next day, I removed the peel ply and sanded everything smooth! Really happy with the way the canard ends turned out! I still have to do the small "rib" layup that is just outboard of the elevator end.




No comments: